It's amazing what you can still find when out climbing in the UK. We found this crag from looking at the guide book....funny that. We were looking at the photo of the western face of Mother Careys Kitchen and noticed that it stops at the route 'The cruel sea', so it seemed worth a look what was around the corner. The look around the corner didn't disappoint and we ended up bagging the main lines of the crag on day one and 5 first ascents in total. The next day we headed back and did the obvious easier routes and had a go at the mega line of the crag that proved to hard for us on that day. We named the crag Disco Buttress as all day we had a radio at the bottom of the crag blaring out radio 6 all day. Ace. Descriptions Disco Buttress is situated in Mother Careys Kitchen between Great Wall and Blind Bay on the south facing buttress. A mainly non-tidal crag with easy approaches, a mix of grades and on good rock. All the routes are less then 20 meters in lenght. Approach via abseil. Route one - 'Sound and Rhythm', S 4a *. Follow steps up rightward on the face until below the groove. Layback up this to the top. Route two - 'The Dreaded Disco', E1 5b *. Climb the rib to a large ledge on the face. Fiddle in some gear and traverse right to the arete. Climb the arete or traverse right again into the hanging groove which is followed to the top. Route three - 'Disco Biscuit', [...]
If your looking for a sport climbing course then this could be the best time of year. The weather has got colder the leaves are falling off the trees, ladies and gentlemen the autumn has arrived. Today we headed out to Tirpentwys in South Wales for some sport climbing action. The climbing at Tirpentwys is well bolted, on generally good holds and has lower grade routes in the sun making it a great place to go for a sports climbing course or for some rock climbing coaching. South Wales sport climbing has always left me a little confused. It does need a new guide book to iron some of the glitches in the last book and there are some great climbs that are hidden away. People keep popping up around the Bristol climbing scene and asking me if I've been here and there in South Wales, most of the time I have, or if i say 'I haven't', it's because I have tried to erase it from my mind. Tirpentwys, however is a great sports climbing venue, it's located in south Wales and pictured on the map below, a guide book topo can be found here - click here. If you're interested in a rock climbing course or for any rock climbing coaching and top tips then get in touch. Prices start from £150 a day for two people and all kit provided. Tirpentwys in south Wales is one of the venues that we use on our sports climbing courses. Below is a shot video from today.
Welsh 3 Peaks Challenge A fantastic weekend completing the Welsh 3 Peaks Challenge with staff from Bristol Zoo. The Welsh 3 CPeaks challenge - simple, climb the highest mountains in Wales from each of the three main mountain areas. Snowdon, Cadair Idris and Pen y Fan are the mountains and you have 24 hours in which to climb them all. Welsh 3 Peaks Challenge I have done this challenge in the past and I had almost forgotten how good the Welsh 3 Peaks Challenge is. I certainly prefer it to the national 3 peaks challenge, which i have done a few times and best experienced by push bike for the ultimate experience. These days the national 3 peaks challenge is overcrowded and the mountains have motorway footpaths to the summit which is necessary to stop erosion. The Welsh 3 Peaks Challenge however has Cadair Idris and that's the mountain that really feels remote and 'out there' compared with the others. We started walking in at 5 am in the dark and the rain. So Snowdon certainly felt 'out there' for the group - lets face it, unless you're an experienced climber operating in the alps or Scotland in winter, you don't often get up at 3:30am to make the most of the day but that's what you need to do to complete the Welsh 3 Peaks Challenge. Snowdon - 1085 m For this challenge I was working with Bristol Zoo and a total of 30 of there staff were trying to complete the welsh 3 peaks challenge over 24 hours. [...]
Canonteign Falls Abseil Events Canonteign Falls is the highest waterfall in England and its set in spectacular grounds on the edge of Dartmoor. Abseiling off Canonteign Falls is a fantastic challenge and is used by charities to raise money for a great cause. More information on Canonteign Falls here. The grounds at Canonteign Falls has a beautiful lake, lots of fantastic walks for the family, a cafe serving home cooked food, cakes and ice creams. At the top of the waterfall is a stunning view across the surrounding countryside and large fern garden. There is plenty to do for children and makes a great day out for you and the family and therefore making it a great event location for a charity abseil. We have run abseil events there for the past five years with a 100 percent success rate for every abseiler coming down Canonteign Falls, which is a great achievement to all involved. The charities that we have worked with have raised as much as £13,000 per day on abseil events and we have run the whole day for them, with no costs to the charity. This is done by the abseil participants paying a registration fee and that covers our cost for the event meaning that all the money raised goes straight to charity. We provide wet suits for all participants, changing rooms and lots of skilled and helpful instructors at hand on all stages of the abseil process to help the day go smoothly. Below is a video of one of our Canonteign Falls abseil events for Children's Hospice South West. [...]
Some times you got to get nicely nervous. That was the plan today. I went down to Snuff Mills today with Henry Castle from Climb Pembroke and did the 2nd ascent of 'Morris Dancing on Ecstasy' only moments before the 1st pitch got retro bolted. The route is well worth 3 stars and there is nothing like it for miles around. This is pure adventure climbing at its best but safe to, well, now the first pitch is bolted. The routes is 4 pitches long and we thought it went at HVS 5a, 5a, 5a, 4c. It's amazing climbing, in a superb position, funky moves, tree swinging, air beneath you and bolts from the sport routes every now and again to add to the experience. It somehow manages to feel really spooky but actually because of the trees and bolts, its safe but it feels like a big sea cliff adventure route. Amazing all the way. Pack your bags and get down there. Morris Dancing on Ecstasy - 3 stars Contact Us for your Rock Climbing Course - Contact Us
So you live in the London area and you're a rock climber? You want to get out of the city and climb on some real rock? This Article will look at the options that you have if you're going for a day or a weekend away rock climbing somewhere outside of the City of London. The places I have described are close by so as to not break the bank or increase your carbon foot print too much. If you want to go to North Wales, go. The same with Spain. This article will look at the crags you can get to in a day if you're keen. London city - our nation's capital. The big cheese, the smoke, the hustle and bustle of the business world and yes, now it's your day off and you want to escape - of course you do. If you're a rock climber who lives in the City of London then you know the battles of trying to get away and enjoy some time in the countryside, escaping the rat race for a day and freeing your mind from the grip of the office. It has a great effect. Having a car is the first thing that you will find very handy, or having a friend with a car, or stealing a car, borrowing a car, hiring a car, or just generally getting a car is helpful as a climber. A lot of the climbing spots in the UK are not best fed by public transport. A train will drop you off in the centre of a city but the crag you want to climb at is 11 miles south in the depths of the wilderness. Having a car is [...]
This article is designed to help the new outdoor rock climber find the best place to go rock climbing around Bristol. Bristol is a great place to be based if you're a rock climber, with crags in the city itself and with great motorway links to other UK climbing spots and an international airport on its doorstep. You can see why it's one of the best cities to live in for rock climbing. Bristol has Avon Gorge in the heart of the city and it's known as the best city crag in the world - if that doesn't get your juices flowing I don't know what will. However, Avon Gorge does take some time to settle into the climbing style - with its delicate and balancy moves. So don't go jumping onto an E2 at Main Wall just yet! I know many hard visiting climbers that have admitted to being terrified at Avon Gorge. I wrote this article to whip around the local crags to give you a few options if you're starting out rock climbing around Bristol. I hope that I share some of my experiences and knowledge in the process. I've not really focused on any of the sport climbing areas and will leave that for another article, so this is more aimed at those who want to do some trad. I've inserted links to the crags and routes mentioned so feel free to click the highlighted text to find out where the crag is and find out some more information. Myself trying to figure out how steep this wall is in Avon Gorge!! Goblin Comb When you start off rock climbing around Bristol most people are [...]
The Wye Valley Last weekend i was working in the Wye Valley rock climbing. Some of the best Wye Valley rock climbing can be found at Wintours Leap which is a magnificent crag. One hundred meters tall in parts and with trad routes and sports, both single and multi-pitch, with great views - its hard to beat. The road access is close by and you can park in picturesque village of Woodcroft meaning that the walk into Wintours Leap for Wye Valley rock climbing is only 5 minutes. Cliffs in the local area to rival Wintours Leap are Avon Gorge in Bristol and Cheddar gorge in Somerset. Both of these crags however have roads at the bottom which makes for even quicker access but you have the traffic noise interfering with your peace and rock climbing ambiance. I was working with Harry and Simon getting them in the Wye Valley rock climbing outside from indoor climbing. They hadn't done any lead climbing before and wanted to learn the skills to be able to climb outside and learn to lead sport climbs so they can use that skills indoors and outside. We started off at the top of fly wall getting the guys using there ropes to setup top ropes in order to allow them to climb outside on minimal kit and therefore cost in purchasing equipment. After we had climbed 4 routes in this manner we then moved over to some sport climbs, getting the guys leading and then stripping the routes. If your interested in learning the skills to go from indoor climbing to outdoor rock climbing then get in touch and we can make a course tailored to your needs. [...]
Today i was rock climbing coaching in the Wye Valley working for the BMC. I had four young people from various youth squads that had booked a course with the BMC to learn to lead sports routes outdoors. None of the guys and girls had climbed outside before but had all lead before indoor and all climbed at a good level. So it was my job to do some good climbing coaching to get them up to speed and out on the crag. The team pictured above were all super keen so we headed to Wyndcliffe Quarry to start off with, which is a great venue for climbing coaching. With two pairs climbing i put up two bottom ropes so i could watch the guys lead while a rope was above them the whole time. As they were indoor climbers i didn't give them the guide book or tell them the grades, they had to climb both routes and then let me know what grade they thought they were. To be fair to them they were very close to the grade - that doesn't normally happen so good effort team. After that we did some climbing coaching on stripping anchors after leading a route, we did this on the ground and then moved onto the guys leading there own route and then stripping it themselves. This is impressive considering some of them were only 11 years old and it takes a lot of learning and putting into practice to get this nailed so well done guys. After everyone had lead a route we packed up and headed over to Wintours Leap on the other side of the river. We got everyone on a [...]
Cracking session this evening doing an abseil in Avon Gorge. The weather was perfect and all the boys went down the abseil, some even abseiled using a stick rather than the traditional figure of 8. If you fancy doing an abseil in Avon Gorge then get in touch. Avon Gorge is great venue for abseiling with lots of abseils all at different heights with great views of the Avon Gorge - awesome.