My local crag is Avon Gorge and when you’ve scratched around the whole place many times its always nice to find a new line. After a rather bad start to the day with it being to cold to climb thanks to the bitingly cold northly wind, Henry and I thought we should have a look around the Gollums Cave area and see if we ha missed anything from other visits and low and behold this little corker.

Me and on the first ascent

Starting just right of Gollums Cave it climbs through the roof to get onto a small slab before moving up with the crux pop right at the top.  The route is small only 9m but the climbing is fun and safe-ish once the first piece of gear is reached at around 5m’s.  We abseiled the route first, cleaned it and added an in-situ and 2 pegs.  All the gear is there but be aware the top peg is poor.  Go on have some fun and do it.  Here’s a video of Henry doing the second ascent. The route is called “GGGGRRRR not myrrh” and is E2 5c, just in time for christmas. Lovely stuff.

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