Here we go then my top 10 easy / mid grade routes in Avon Gorge – Bristol.
Avon Gorge is in the heart of the city of Bristol and it is the best city crag in the world. The list below is a guide to a few of the routes that i think are fun in Avon Gorge that are VS or below. Happy climbing.
- Unknown Wall – VS 4c – This is an amazing route for the grade, weaving between roofs with continual interest, good gear good rock. Top tip – don’t go all the way to the roof and traverse left, step up to the traverse from the slab 😉 Currently this climb is out of bounds more info here.
- Morpheus – VD 4a – A great route for the grade. The main pitch has lots of interest, it’s well protected and there are varied moves to keep you entertained. You can finish direct up the wall up the obvious groove line on the upper wall at HS 4b but be warned this is slightly run out.
- Gronk – VS 4c – A varied route with technical slabby sections and balancy moves. The upper traverse can have people gripped but the gear is very good. It can feel a bit spooky on the first pitch which is the crux and be careful with your route finding.
- Nightmare (super duppa dircet) – HS 4b – I added this variation a few months back as i think its much better then the original. Where Nightmare traverses left on the first pitch go straight up the crack on the left side of the wedged block, place bomb proof gear and using good holds move onto the ledge and rejoin Nightmares 2nd pitch. This variation has great gear rough rock and at the grade is a welcome addition to Avon Gorge. Get on it!!
- Clarion -VS 4c – A nicely balanced pitch that makes you feel a little like spider man. The start is slightly run out but easy and the rest of the route gives good climbing with good protection. Once at the belay continue on and do………
- Petros – VS 4c – Start by climbing a tree……a tree, brilliant, has to be on the list. From the tree jump ambitiously onto the slab and flake and continue up or do it cautiously its up to you. Fun fun fun.
- Easy Route – Mod – This is one of the best routes in the world for introducing new climbers too. It has tree belays, the rock is rough, the views great and there is lots of variety possible as well as adding in pitches on the slabs. The ultimate picnic route. I once guided 9 people up this route with 3 people on a rope and having 3 ropes on – anything is possible. This route gets no stars in the guide but it’s worth 3 – go and take your parents on it they will love it.
- In through the Out Door – VS 4b – Not done this one? and why not? This is a great route, caving its way through the cliff, with a weird move to bring you back to day light and onto the face again. For something different and a bit out there, this route is a classic. PS you do not need a head torch 😉
- Hodge’s Pin – VS 4c – Another routes that is a little off the beaten track but actually has very easy access. Start at the crack and follow it up and right, with good gear and good moves – nice!!!
- Piton Route – VS 4c – Well now its in Classic Rock and that means its a classic. Now showing a few signs of wear and tear in the form of a very badly polished foot hold but never mind grab your rack and crack on. This is a great route to try and do in a single pitch with a single or double ropes to see how your rope work is fairing, have a go and see if you grind to a halt with rope drag.
There you have it my top 10 easy / mid grade routes in Avon Gorge – Bristol. Let me know if you’ve done them all or want any advice on other in the area. Stay safe and have fun.
Get in touch if you fancy doing some routes in Avon Gorge
