Yesterday saw the first day back on dry local limestone and it was time to find out if the arms and fingers had the juice in them. We headed to the sport and trad cliff of Wyncliff in the Wye Valley, which is a real sun trap this time of year and can be really hot, t-shirt weather climbing. After warming up on a few F5 and a HVS i got on the classic Bogger Bob E3 6a and got pumped out of my mind and took a rest just before the chains, shame but top tip is to use the jug out left which i ignored in my ‘must climb crack. mindset to place the last high piece before the crux. Still it was fun and a pump is always useful. After that i went up the Arete F7a+ and got that first go, which to be completely honest isn’t really worth its 1 star. Still the challenge of the year is off the mark. I’ve done the winter routes in the 12 days in Scotland and have done one of the F7a’s and i am not counting the E3 because i rested.
20 – F7a’s, 10 -F7b’s, 1 – F7c’s, 10 – E3’s, 1 – E5, 5 – winter 5’s and 5 Font 7a’s and an 9b+ off-width monster crack on Pluto………………..
Bogger Bob E3
