Always a difficult question really. Well, it depends on what you’re doing. Most shops and retailers will try and squeeze your foot into something a 4 year old would struggle to put on to do ballet. So whatâs the deal?
If your on the cutting edge of hard sports climbing and need to feel every little bump and edge under your foot, then for sure, having a very tight rock shoe will help you have the extra feeling. For most people if there rock shoe is too tight, it is taking the fun out of there day. The pain caused by this links directly to there experience of the sport and the enjoyment level goes down. When starting out climbing get a sightly looser fitting shoe and as you develop as a climber you will feel the benefits of a tighter shoe.
If you’re sports climbing or trad climbing at the upper limit of your grade then having a tight shoe will help but you probably know this. If you doing multi pitch routes, then having a more comfortable pair is a preferred choice. Consider velcro over laces in order to be able to slip them on and off at belays stances. If you’re doing long routes in the mountains or the Alps and the grade is easy for you, then consider wearing socks as this will make a big difference to the comfort of your day – and comfort will mean a faster day out.
As for which shoe to buy, they all of them have a different fit. Go into a shop and be prepared to try and few pairs on.
Happy Hunting.
