Its been an interesting few day of climbing this week at Avon Gorge. I had a few great clients that had never rock climbed before and both pairs made there way up multi-pitch routes up to Hard Severe, good show. There was a little esoterica with adventure to Sewer Wall and more no star fun, right through to 3 star delights.
We had a really fun time out on The Arete at Main Wall and finished up Direct Route with Owen and Alice. The climbing was fun and it was great to top out and get the buzz!!
The next day i had a few meetings to do in the day but managed to get out climbing with Alex and Charlotte in the evening and topped out at Sea Walls after doing Morpheus with a Mobious top pitch for added spice and adventure. The sun light at the top was perfect and it really did feel like the first evenings climbing of the year.
The next few day saw a mission with Mr Castle, exploring some local choss and getting excited about esoterica. Sewer Wall, what a place to start. A crag with 4 routes and all no star and hidden to the most that travel the routes of Avon Gorge. Still lets go and have a go eh, let’s go and explore, see what’s what. A mild scramble of the the Easy Route leads to the routes and we went for Hades Crack VS 4c as it was the nicest line and the easiest line. Turned out to be an ok-ish route and worth the adventure if you have climbed all the other VS’s everywhere else that are stared.
The other route that we did that day was Nightcap HVS at Sea Walls. Please don’t do it unless you really have to. I didn’t like it and i don’t say that about almost all route, i like loose routes and hard route, safe, fun, what ever. This how ever had none of the qualities that a rock climb should have. Still…………………it’s all good fun.
So after doing Nightcap and seeing the starts of Critics Choices and Connoisseur’s Choice i started to feel the want to try something harder and start the summer season off with some harder routes. The next day i went down the gorge on my own and headed to Sea Walls with 2 bouldering mats and headed for Connoisseur’s Choice E2/4 6b i meet Phil a mate from Bristol Climbing Center and we went at the route together. I went to the E2 option of clipping the peg rather than soloing the climb. The start is the hardest bit with polished foot holds and a really stiff pull to get going and couple of hard but not as hard moves follow, sort of the same as Critics. After that i had a quick go on Edgemaster on toprope and came off the ramp crux somewhere near where i had filmed Dick Hall falling off the same move the day before. Will get back on that this week but the big mission is the A38 tick, fingers crossed.