Located near Beer Head, Hair of the Dog – graded – ™ HXS VI+ A2 5c – what a grade!!!! A mighty challenge and still to this date has only had one known ascent. Over 100m of loose chalk and flint rising dramatically straight up from the pebbled beach above the sea. Its one of the most impressive cliffs I have ever seen in the UK.

Ironically it was over a couple of Beers at the Bristol’s local climbers haunt (The Miners) that Henry and I decided that a second known ascent of the Dog was in order. After packing up the van with all the essentials for a rock climbing trip, ice axes, crampons,drill, warthogs, aiders and much more we were off to Beer Head.

Beer Head is situated 15 miles East of Exeter. A sleepy little finishing village, with good pubs a cosy atmosphere and home to one of the UK€™s most epic adventure routes.

Once at Beer it seemed a shame to waste the opportunity of the good towns name and decided that a half would be the best way of starting this adventure. Watching the tide move out we wandered out along the shore heading west, checking out lines on the cliff and seeing what was what. On rounding the corner, where the cliff reaches its highest point (380ft) the three star line jumps out and slaps you with the sensation of â€bloody hell, that looks serious€™. Wandering up to the base of the crag you realise the scale of the cliff, huge, white, gulls swooping, large pieces of black shiny flint sticking out waiting to fall or there sharp edges waiting to slice your ropes.

The first pitch enters a vertical chimney full of loose looking stones all jumbled up and no real gear. The plan was to take an electric hand drill and use this to place homemade warthogs (metal bar sharpened on one end) while climbing on the lead. The reality is that you won€™t really be able to use the drill while climbing, instead using it for belays in order to make the route as safe as possible.

This really was our down fall, the drill we had with us was not cutting the mustard and strained to make quick work of the chalk on the first placement. 5 or 6 pitches of climbing would drain the battery and make the route far less safe. We decided to abandon the attempt this time and come back with a better drill and thicker ropes as the half ropes that we intended using, was also a risk with all the shape flint protruding. Time spent in reconnaissance is seldom wasted.

Hair of the dog…………………… watch this space.